Mayaguana… Mayaguana… Mayaguana…. Mayaguana and more Mayaguana

Once again, limited internet access keeps us from posting as frequently as we would like to.  Nevertheless, we are in Mayaguana, having arrived after a difficult slug into the Trade-winds (prevailing easterlies/south-easterlies) from George Town.

Checkers on Volleyball Beach, George Town

When we began this trip, we had to make a decision regarding which route to follow to the Caribbean.  We considered two.  One would be offshore, heading to Bermuda and then south with the offshore legs totaling over 15 days of travel. The other option was to head south into the Bahamas and work our way east through this island country.  We opted for the latter for a number of reasons including a desire to see the Exumas and to avoid an extended offshore passage at the beginning of our trip.  The reason many choose not to transit this route is because of the prevailing winds.  They are strong, from the east and relentless.  If you are lucky you may see a front push through providing 1-3 days of northerly winds - riding the northerlies is the best way to get east. 

Richard Navigating

We sailed from Black Point to George Town in a day and anchored for the night at Sandy Beach.  Due to wave action and wind direction, we decided to move to the next anchorage, Volleyball Beach, still in George Town.  Here we found the Chat ‘n Chill Bar on the beach and enjoyed a Kalik (local Bahamian beer)  or two.  With a need to find a notary public, a post office and provisions, we stayed until Monday.  George Town is the largest settlement in the Bahamas after Nassau and Freeport and the center of government for the region.  We set sail at noon for points east expecting (according to the “trusty” weather reports) a front to come through providing three days of northerly winds.

George Town

After sailing for two and a half days (two nights out), the front stalled over Florida and the easterly winds blew hard.  George Townover 10’.  This is the equivalent of going nowhere fast and was not a pleasant experience; Kay and Murray were tempted to mutiny. Atalanta was strong and competent in these conditions, but this type of sailing is exhausting.  Running low on energy and patience, we headed for the “out-island” of Mayaguana (its Lucayan name) that is sparsely settled and offers basically no services for tourists.  We sailed in after dark tucking behind an extensive coral reef for protection from the high waves and wind to wait for the next front to head to the Turks and Caicos . . . a mere 300 miles away from Puerto Rico.   We are below the Tropic of Cancer and exploring postcard perfect turquoise waters and sandy beaches.

Little did we know, the winds would only increase and continue from the east and east-south-east.  After two days at the NE point, we moved to the south side of the island to Abraham’s Bay.  Here we found the company of about a half dozen boats waiting, waiting for the next front to carry us to the Turks and Caicos.  It will a while before that happens.  In the mean while we wait, meet new friends, and exploring the last outpost of the Bahamas, Mayaguana. The people here are friendly and welcoming to those willing to sail here.  As we move south, it will become less remote and less isolated.  We are spending out time reading, snorkeling, scuba diving and letting the constant 20-25 knots of wind blow our hair dry. 

Atalanta at Anchor
Mayaguana

While today is Sunday, we are anticipating that we will be able to leave for the Caicos Islands on Wednesday.  Our goal of being in the USVI in February is appearing to be unrealistic.  We may stay in the Turks and Caicos and fly home for Rachel and Pat’s wedding from there.  Time will tell.  It's all about the weather.

Voyaging East

Thanks for following our posts and stay in touch.  Love to hear your comments.

Richard and Kay

The Exumas

HighBourne Cay

Chad and Richard
Enjoying Cubans

While we have been somewhat delinquent getting this post out, the fact of the matter is we are in a part of the Bahamas that has not heard of cell phones or the web.  This, it is paradise.  The waters are clear as for as far as you can see, the skies are blue with temperatures consistently in the low 80’s. 

Tara and Kay

Nassau was a very interesting spot to experience but like many areas, it was poor and you needed to be careful where you travelled.  Stores buzzed you in and walking at night was not always a good choice.  In contrast, Paradise Island, home of the Atlantis Resort was a vacationland for the rich and non-Bohamian.  While an amazing structure and beautiful aquarium, it did serve to highlight the discrepancy between the life of those touring and those who were residents. 

SPECIAL ANNOUNCEMENT!  While in Nassau, Tara (Kay's daughter) and Chad became engaged. We are both very happy for them and know they will have a wonderful life together.   

Since leaving Nassau, we have been exploring the Exuma chain.  These islands include hundreds of small islands and cays (keys) and extend south for about 100 miles of this island country.  Our first cay was Highbourne.  While basically a remote out island, there was a small marina and restaurant there.  Christmas eve, we found ourselves at Zumas, eating outside under the stars.  The blackened Mahi Mahi was great as was the entire meal.  What a treat for Christmas Eve.  After a wonderful meal, we rode back to Atalanta as the skies opened up and a tropical rain fell.  Given the temps, it was just refreshing. 

Christmas day was also spend in Highbourne.  David and Rose Ann on Pyxis sailed down and joined us for our holiday dinner.  We met David and Rose Ann in Nassau and have really enjoyed getting to know them.  Rose Ann makes a great cherry pie that was a perfect end to a fine meal.  This was our first Christmas away from our kids and we greatly missed being with them.  Perhaps they will celebrate the next one with us in the Caribbean. 

Christmas Tree on Atalanta

We sailed from Highbourne Cay to Hawkbill Cay and met Pyxis there.  We were treated to a dingy tour of the island that that was spectacular.  The waters are pristine, the coral beautiful and the sand pure and white.  This island is rich with conch and lobsters but none can be taken as it is part of a national preserve.  There is a sand found here (Uli) that is unique in its texture and qualities.  It is hard to believe that we will ever find a more beautiful spot, bluer water, or greater solitude but we will keep on going south to see. 

We are now into day 130 of living onboard.  It seems like only yesterday that we started out.  Atalanta has been a good home and provided us with all that we need to be safe, comfortable, and content.  It is not only our shelter but our means for travel, and our home.  We have now travelled over two thousand miles on her, celebrated holidays, and experienced both fine and challenging weather.  She is providing for us well and has met all of our expectations. 

We visited Staniel Cay, as we move down the Exuma chain.  This is another remote island paradise that has unfortunately been polluted with super yachts.  While here we were unfortunately hit broadside while we were at anchor.  The damage was significant but will not interfere with our progress south.  The accident was was unfortunate and will require some attention once we arrive in the USVIs. 

The Swimming Pigs of Staniel Cay

While in Staniel Cay we snorkeled the Thunderball Caves.  This is where parts of the James Bond film Thunderball were filmed.  The fish and coral were spectacular and Kay did a GREAT job of swimming the caves. This is also home to the swimming pigs of Big Major Cay.  They literally swim out to your dingy and try to get in.  

Kay, Rose Ann and David

Pyxis

We are now in Black Point in the Exumas waiting for the winds to favor our trip south to Georgetown.  We now have to focus on making time to the east and south so that we will be able to reach our destination of the USVI by February.  We have to say good bye to our friends on Pyxis and hope to stay in touch for years to come.

All is well and we are having the time of our lives.  Thanks for following and stay in touch. 

The Berry Islands

After a lovely stay in both North and South Bimini, we had a great weather window allowing us to head east to the Berry Islands, a chain of islands and cays lying on the eastern side of the Great Bahamas Bank.  The cays are uninhabited for the most part.  Some are privately owned.  The Berry's are clearly off the well-traveled path and are not for those seeking crowds or organized activities.  For those seeking unadulterated isolation, this is paradise.  

We left South Bimini at 6:50 AM on Sunday with winds out of the south east.  After a six mile run north we rounded the light at Moselle Bank and assumed a 103 degree course through the Great Bahamas Bank to Great Harbor Cay.  We averaged over 7.5 knots for the entire 12 hour sail.  It was a great sail with 15-20 knot winds and moderate seas on the beam.  In other words we flew (by sailing standards).  Unfortunately, with the sun setting at 5:30 PM, we were not able to enter the harbor in daylight.  The entry to the harbor has two stonewalls about 30 feet apart.  It was somewhat intimidating to enter at night but all went well with the support of Tara, Chad, and Kay.  Once in, we wound through a narrow channel to a well-protected Marina.  After a sampling of the Conch fritters and other treats, it was time to call it a day.

Great Harbor Beach

We were pleased to be able to move east as easily as we have.  With the winds shifting to the east and strengthening as January approaches, we will continue to jump in that direction when the weather permits.  This is the challenge of going through the Bahamas as a route to the lower Caribbean.  It is also why so many sailers opt for the longer passages from the Carolinas or north to Bermuda or directly to the USVIs.  That will be for another trip and another time.

Shark by the Boat

For now, we feel we are in paradise and enjoying our visit with Tara and Chad.  Unfortunately, they will be returning to Vermont at the end of the week.  This will mean we have to leave the Berry's and sail to Nassau so that they can ferry back to Florida.  From Nassau we will again look east and head for the Exumas.  We hope to spend a good deal of time there before the longer passage to Porto Rico. 

Thanks for following....

Atalanta has "Left The Building"

Bimini Coast

Atalanta and its intrepid crew have left the U.S. for foreign waters.  We are excited to say that we successfully transited the Gulf Stream and landed in the Bahamas, Bimini to be exact.  A favorite spot for Hemingway and Adam Clayton Powell.  Prior to our departure we spent three days in Fort Lauderdale preparing for the trip, waiting for Chad and Tara to arrive, and playing with friends Richard and Martin.  We departed mid-day on Tuesday and headed south to Miami so we would have a better angle to cross the Gulf Stream.

Chad and Tara

For those who are unfamiliar with the Gulf Stream, it is a river that flows through the Atlantic at a 3-6 knot clip.  Its position changes somewhat each day.  For us it began about 10 miles off the Florida shore and extended 35 miles to the east.  With the wind out of the east, it was a challenge to get across under sail.  At times we had to use the engine to assist as not to drift too far north.  The sea conditions of the Stream can also be very challenging.  We were fortunate to have a good weather window and only 2-4 foot seas.  It was very comfortable.  We entered the Stream just before sunset and spent the whole night crossing.  Our final approach into Bimini was complete by 9 AM.

We are now comfortably docked at the Bimini Blue Water Marina in Alice
Town.  It didn't take long for us to find ourselves snorkeling in blue clear

The Dolphin House
Bimini

water.  We saw barracuda, small sheepsheads, and other fish that we couldn't identify.  Tara and Chad were able to find conch shells and other treasures.

Our next steps in the journey will take us to the Berry Islands and points east.  We are so thrilled to be in this beautiful country, exploring and enjoying all it has to offer.  More to come as we progress.
Thanks for following.

Southern Florida and Beyond

Saturn V

Kay getting ready to Lauch

Atlantis

Since Thanksgiving, we have had many an adventure.  It is remarkable how social travel by boat is.  We are connecting with friends of old and meeting new ones regularly.  After leaving St. Augustine, we headed down the ICW to Daytona.  After one night we continued on to the warmer climes and made it to Titusville, FL.

Titusville is one of those towns impacted by the down-sizing of a single employer, NASA.  This little town provided us with a gateway to the Kennedy Space Center and Cape Canaveral.  We spent the day with John and Theresa who were also touring the Center.  We were so impressed and moved by our visit to the place where we launched astronauts to the moon and International Space Station.After our visit to Titusville, we continued south and landed in an anchorage with friends Ken and Francie sailing "Release" just off the Melbourne Bridge.  Here we were able to watch the Space X rocket launch, another thrill to see.  After spending a day at the beach and enjoying the company of Ken and Francie, we continued south.

Saying goodbye to Release, we continued to Sebastian for a short but sweet visit with fellow Mad River Valley residents, Peter and Blaine.  We anchored just outside the channel in the lee of a small island, a short dingy ride to Peter and Blaine's condo.  After lots of food, drink and catching up, we were once again on our way in search of perpetual sunshine.

Blaine, Richard and Kay
Sebastian, FL

We motored to Fort Pierce and exited the ICW at sundown.  The current was strong and the wind opposing resulting in a steep (10 foot) chop.  It was a challenge to enter the Atlantic but once there we sailed through the night to Fort Lauderdale, arriving at 4 PM the following day.  Upon arriving in Ft. Lauderdale we were met by Bristol friends Martin and Richard.  They invited us to a wonderful dinner aboard 11-11.  We can't thank them enough for a wonderful dinner and welcome to Fort Lauderdale.

Now the time has come.  Tara and Chad will join us tonight and we will sail to Miami and then off shore to Bimini.  The non-USA portion of our journey begins and we are excited to see where it takes us.  More on that as it unfolds.

Thanks for following us and we hope all is well.

Murray anticipates getting off Atalanta