We are back in Rio Dulce, Guatemala. After a wonderful, hectic visit to the USA we are now aboard Atalanta. While in Vermont we wed and bought a house in Colchester all within 5 days. As homeowners and boat owners we will begin to discover a new rhythm to balancing our lives on sea and on land.
The Guatemala we are discovering is a
country of contradictions. It is rich in
agriculture with farms and ranches spanning from the Atlantic to Pacific
shores. It is a country of great
physical beauty with volcanoes, rainforests and lakes and varied wildlife. It
has a rich Mayan culture and kind people.
On the other hand, there is a history of prejudice, crime, and
corruption plaguing Central American countries that have struggled with
occupation, revolution and the economic overreach of the United States. Nevertheless,
we are in Rio Dulce, safe and sound.
Surrounded by many other seafarers, we hide from the Atlantic storms in
this idyllic setting 30 miles up the river and we empathize with those
currently in the path of Hurricanes Matthew and Nicole.
While rich in resources, Guatemala remains
a poor country. Provisioning is a weekly activity for us and we find certain
items (like beef and fish) difficult to obtain. Chicken and fresh fruits & veggies
are available based upon what is in season locally and what is imported. We were here during peak season for mango,
watermelon, pineapple, and bananas. Currently, rambutan is plentiful. Restaurants offer simply prepared grilled or
fried meat with a side dish. Rice, beans
and tortillas are always on the menu. We buy 20 hot, freshly made-while-we-wait,
hot tortillas on the street for under $2 USD. Gallo is the local beer, wine is
fairly expensive, and fresh fruit shakes are popular beverages.
Kay is an avid admirer of the traditional
clothing (traje) worn by many indigenous Guatemalans especially in the rural
highlands. Traje’s intricately woven thread, beautiful colors and detailed
craftsmanship create a work of art.
However, the clothes also tell stories of identity, geography and
cultural preservation. Each community
can be identified by the patterns, colors, and style of embroidery used. Traje
should be worn in its entirety: blouse (huipil), sash (faja), shawl (rebozo),
skirt (corte) and hair wrap (cinta). For
men: overshirt (capixay), shirt (camisa), belt (cinturon), pants (pantalon) and
sombrero. When entirely handmade, a single piece can take months to complete
from spinning cotton into thread, dying it, weaving on a backstrap loom, and
then embroidering. A complete traje can cost $250 USD – a small fortune! I have
been shopping in pacas, aka second-hand shops and acquired a beautiful beaded
sash. 
Boat services here tend to be high quality
and relatively inexpensive. Docking fees
are reasonable although electricity is very expensive. The RAM boat yard
provides repair service at a rate of $25.00 USD/hour. We often paid $100.00/hour
in the United States. Consequently, we have
decided to have Atalanta’s hull repainted in November-December, a 6-week job.
This will extend our stay in Guatemala to almost 6 months.
Next week we hop on a bus to Flores and
visit the ruins at Tikal for 4 days.
Thanks for following.
Richard and Kay
More Pics
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| Life is Good |
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| A visit to Bread and Puppet While in Vermont |
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| Kay takes a side trip to Charleston to visit our Grandson |
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| Reprovisioning in the Markets of Fronteras, Guatemala |
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| Hanging by the Chicken Bus |
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| Rambuton and Yes Kay Eats It |
