From June to November sailors pay close
attention to the development of tropical depressions forming in the
Atlantic. Many storms begin off the
coast of Africa, move in an arc across the Atlantic, and enter the Caribbean
above the 10th parallel.
Sailors have two choices: either
drop below the 10th parallel or go inland to escape the full force
of these weather systems.
This year we brought Atalanta up the Rio
Dulce (Sweet River) in Guatemala to Nana Juana Marina. We are 25 miles from the
Gulf of Guatemala and the open waters of the Atlantic. With over a half dozen small marinas nearby,
we are meeting lots of other cruisers who chose to spend the next 4-5 months
here.
Guatemala is a beautiful country with a
rich Mayan history. It also has been
the subject of US intervention much of which was on behalf of the United Fruit
Company. It is this part of the
Guatemalan history that we are finding has relevance to the current political
situation and Central America’s relationship with the USA.
Market Stan, Fronteras |
Our journey into Guatemala began with a
brief passage from the Gulf of Guatemala to Livingston at the mouth of the Rio
Dulce. After engaging the services of
Raul to check us in, we left Livingston and headed up river. This passage was
just spectacular with steep canyon walls, dense green forest, and white herons
sunning on mangroves. As we motored up
river, the depth varied from 10’-80’ and unlike most rivers, the deeper waters
were on the outside of the bends. After
motoring about 15 miles, we inched into an inner bay off the river and dropped
the anchor with 4-5 other boats and settled in for a quiet evening. The next
morning we continued the last 15 miles to our final destination at Nana Juana
Marina in the town of Rio Dulce (formerly known as Fronteras).
The “rainy season” in this tropical zone
began about a month late this year but by the third week in June it arrived in
full force. Almost every day the
temperature reaches about 89º (“feels like” 110º). Around 5:00 in the evening we watch storm
clouds building over the mountains and hear thunder rumbling in the distance.
That’s our warning to run to the boat and close the hatches because soon
the rain will pour down in sheets. It is not unusual to
have 4-5” of rain and Atalanta is rising higher and higher above the dock as
the water level in the river climbs.
We have been in the Rio Dulce for two weeks
but already are familiar with many of its routines and activities. We are getting acquainted with fellow
residents. When significant numbers of
people on boats congregate for long periods of time, a community develops and
activities are organized and shared. Pizza & movie nights, International
Trivia Contests, potluck dinners, and Mexican Train dominos are examples. Last
night we visited a lovely palapa at Tortugal.
Morales |
Yesterday
we took a 30-mile bus ride to the town of Morales. We climbed into a
12-passenger van (called colectivos and operate sort of like a taxi) and in no
time the driver had picked up a total of 19 adults, 1 child, and a large
birthday cake. It was crowded and hot.
The 45-minute ride cost $12 quetzels per person or about $ 1.70 US
dollars each way. The bus driver was constantly switching lanes to dodge
hundreds of potholes and never once stopped talking and/or texting on his cell
phone. It was quite an experience! Pineapples are in season here and so are
lots of other fruits and vegetables we can buy at street markets like this.
Next week we head inland to Lake Atitlan
for a week of Spanish lessons. Our
minimal amount of “gringo Spanish” is
embarrassing so we hope to make some degree improvement. Then it will be time to
fly back to the USA to visit our much-missed family in VT, NY, and SC. Late September will bring us back to Atalanta
for continued travels. Guatemala marks
our southern most point for this journey since we will be sailing north toward New
England by spring 2017.
Adios and thanks for following.
Richard and Kay
More Pics
Home Marina Nanajauna |
Nanajuana |
Cover up to keep the UV rays off Atalanta |
Local Bar and Restaurant |
Rio Dulce Main Street |
Downtown Morales |
Pot Luck on Shore |
Guatemala Cattle off to Market |
Morales |
Morales |
Water Taxi Rio Dulce |