Friday, February 24, 2017

Return to Mexico: Farewell to Guatemala: February 2017




Why Refurbish Atalanta?

We think Atalanta is a very special boat.  It was built in 1983 by the Little Harbor Company, a boat building operation owned and operated by Ted Hood.  Atalanta remained Ted’s family yacht for three years under the name of “Robin Too” (get it? Robin --- Hood).  All yachts personally owned by Ted were painted “stars and stripes blue”, a color resembling robin’s egg blue.

Just about ready to 'splash"


Returning the rudder to her proper location
The men at RAM Marina doing their magic
When one takes temporary possession of one of Ted Hood’s boats, it is expected that certain traditions be respected.  She must be maintained to traditional standards while embracing new technologies.  Not an easy line to walk.  When it became necessary to improve our battery system we considered both solar and wind.  Solar would have required an arch on the aft deck; one that we felt would ruin the lines of the boat.  While wind generation was not around in 1983, its installation on Atalanta doesn’t change her lines.  We opted for wind. 

Living aboard on a full- time basis as we have been for the past four years, puts considerable wear and tear on a boat.  Atalanta was last painted in 1989 with Awlgrip.  This material is like paint but more durable and with a higher gloss.  The time for Atalanta to be repainted had come.  Doing the job correctly required all the paint and filler to be removed and the hull taken back to bare fiberglass.  Then it needed to be sanded, re-faired, sanded again, and then painted with 3 coats of Stars and Stripes.  The preparation was extensive and took about 2 months to complete.  We opted to have the work done at RAM Marina in Rio Dulce, Guatemala where the cost of labor is low and the quality of workmanship high.  Henry, the head of the paint crew did a magnificent job and we are thrilled with the results. The RAM Marina is one that we would recommend to anyone looking to have serious painting or refitting done.  They are probably the best yard we have found in all our years of sailing. Now we have to dock very carefully with lots of fenders over the side so we can try to avoid getting that first scratch!

Where To Now?

With our nephew Noah on board, we left the Rio Dulce for Mexico.  On February 17th, we ended our seven-month stay in this wonderful part of the world. We made many new friends on the Rio Dulce and hope to cross paths with them again.  We wandered down the river toward the Gulf of Honduras and checked out of Guatemala at Livingston. 
On the way down river: Cayo Quemodo Bay

Leaving the Rio Dulce
 After safely crossing the shallow sand bar we headed north in open water.  After an overnight sail we anchored at Long Cay in the Lighthouse Atoll, Belize for the night.  In the morning, we sailed 75 miles offshore in search of the Gulf Stream.  We sailed at 6 - 9 knots due north which is a reasonable speed for us.  As the day progressed the winds and seas increased as we found ourselves in 25+ knot winds and 15+ foot seas. 

Noah passage making
 Atalanta competently handled these conditions but the autopilot stopped working so someone had to be at the helm the entire time.  We took shorter than usual watches and arrived in Isla Mujeras, Mexico two and a half days after leaving Lighthouse.

We are docked at El Milagro Marina.  Isla Mujeres is beautiful, the food is great, and we are reconnecting with old friends that we have not seen for some time. Murray actually made friends here last year and he was pretty happy to see them. We’ll relax, eat, drink and socialize (and do boat chores) here for about 3 weeks and then sail to the Dry Tortugas and be at City Marina in Charleston, SC by April 15.

It feels so good to be moving again and many more adventures lie ahead…..thanks for following our journey.

Richard and Kay

More Pics

Los Tres Ricardos

Casa Mate John on board

Noah and Kay in the Rio

Livingston, Guatemala for Check Out

25 kts of wind
15 footers



Tuesday, December 6, 2016

From the RIO to the USA: Happy Holidays

Murray adjusting to
Vermont in December


We have left the warmth of the Rio Dulce for the chill of Vermont.  While Atalanta is on the hard for her “make-over” we are in Colchester to celebrate the holidays with family and friends. Richard stepped off the plane in Burlington wearing shorts. He traded those for long pants the next day and one day later it snowed and he needed to add boots to his wardrobe. Murray wasn’t all that excited about being in the  snow. However, it’s lovely coming back to such a beautiful place and to have a home here we can call our own. 

Preparing Atalanta for paint
RAM Marina in Guatemala offers a rare opportunity to have high quality work done at a cost significantly less than in the USA.  Atalanta has not been repainted (Awlgrip) since 1989 so she will have Stars and Stripes blue reapplied to her hull and off-white on the cockpit  and coachtop.  Much time consuming preparation is involved including sanding, scraping, repairing fiberglass, and refairing so it is a 6-week job. 

Rio Dulce
We left the Rio Dulce as crew on our good friends’ Moody 47, Argosea.  After completing the checkout process in Livingston, we made a two-day/one-night passage north to Cay Caulker, Belize where we waited for the strong northerlies to abate. Then it was off to Cozumel for a couple of nights followed by a kickass sail across the Yucatan Channel to Puerto Morelos.  We settled Argosea into her slip at Marina El Cid where she will stay while Tony and Anne are home for the holidays in Great Britain.  Our thanks to Anne and Tony for a safe passage, delicious meals, and good company.

Puerto Morelos is home to a small restaurant, Tacos.com which we believe serves the finest tacos in the world and we managed to get to eat there 3 times.  We also had fresh ceviche on the beach and margaritas made with lots of fresh lime juice. This is not the place for us to stay if we want to lose weight!

We return to Guatemala on December 30 and will need several days to put the boat back together and shop for provisions. Then we anticipate sailing north to Isla Mujeres, Mexico, the Dry Tortugas, Key West and the Exumas.  We will arrive in Charleston, SC by April 15 and then Atalanta will find her way back to her old mooring in Bristol RI.  We will spend the summer in Vermont, sailing in New England waters, and planning our next adventure.

We wish you the happiest of holidays and hope the spirit of the season fills you with joy.


Richard and Kay



More Pics

Our First Snow in a Long Time
RAM's Paint Shed
Soon to be Atalanta's Home
The Crew Moves Atalanta
Main Street in Rio Dulce
(AKA Fronteras)

Saturday, October 8, 2016

Life on the Rio Dulce Continues



We are back in Rio Dulce, Guatemala.  After a wonderful, hectic visit to the USA we are now aboard Atalanta.  While in Vermont we wed and bought a house in Colchester all within 5 days.  As homeowners and boat owners we will begin to discover a new rhythm to balancing our lives on sea and on land.

The Guatemala we are discovering is a country of contradictions.  It is rich in agriculture with farms and ranches spanning from the Atlantic to Pacific shores.  It is a country of great physical beauty with volcanoes, rainforests and lakes and varied wildlife. It has a rich Mayan culture and kind people.  On the other hand, there is a history of prejudice, crime, and corruption plaguing Central American countries that have struggled with occupation, revolution and the economic overreach of the United States. Nevertheless, we are in Rio Dulce, safe and sound.  Surrounded by many other seafarers, we hide from the Atlantic storms in this idyllic setting 30 miles up the river and we empathize with those currently in the path of Hurricanes Matthew and Nicole.

While rich in resources, Guatemala remains a poor country. Provisioning is a weekly activity for us and we find certain items (like beef and fish) difficult to obtain. Chicken and fresh fruits & veggies are available based upon what is in season locally and what is imported.  We were here during peak season for mango, watermelon, pineapple, and bananas. Currently, rambutan is plentiful.  Restaurants offer simply prepared grilled or fried meat with a side dish.  Rice, beans and tortillas are always on the menu. We buy 20 hot, freshly made-while-we-wait, hot tortillas on the street for under $2 USD. Gallo is the local beer, wine is fairly expensive, and fresh fruit shakes are popular beverages.

Kay is an avid admirer of the traditional clothing (traje) worn by many indigenous Guatemalans especially in the rural highlands. Traje’s intricately woven thread, beautiful colors and detailed craftsmanship create a work of art.  However, the clothes also tell stories of identity, geography and cultural preservation.  Each community can be identified by the patterns, colors, and style of embroidery used. Traje should be worn in its entirety: blouse (huipil), sash (faja), shawl (rebozo), skirt (corte) and hair wrap (cinta).  For men: overshirt (capixay), shirt (camisa), belt (cinturon), pants (pantalon) and sombrero. When entirely handmade, a single piece can take months to complete from spinning cotton into thread, dying it, weaving on a backstrap loom, and then embroidering. A complete traje can cost $250 USD – a small fortune! I have been shopping in pacas, aka second-hand shops and acquired a beautiful beaded sash.

Boat services here tend to be high quality and relatively inexpensive.  Docking fees are reasonable although electricity is very expensive. The RAM boat yard provides repair service at a rate of $25.00 USD/hour. We often paid $100.00/hour in the United States.  Consequently, we have decided to have Atalanta’s hull repainted in November-December, a 6-week job. This will extend our stay in Guatemala to almost 6 months. 

Next week we hop on a bus to Flores and visit the ruins at Tikal for 4 days.  Thanks for following.

Richard and Kay



More Pics


Life is Good

A visit to Bread and Puppet
While in Vermont

Kay takes a side trip to Charleston
to visit our Grandson

Reprovisioning in the Markets of
Fronteras, Guatemala

Hanging by the Chicken Bus


Rambuton
and Yes Kay Eats It





Sunday, September 4, 2016

Back in the USA (temporarily!)

Out for a ride in Paul's
1953 MG TD MkII


It has been almost two months since our last posting.  This has been in part because we haven’t moved from the Rio Dulce due to hurricane season and because we have been visiting the States for two months.

Kay and Richard with Tara and Caitlin
On July 25th, we took a five-hour cab ride to the airport in Guatemala City and began what became a two day-trip via plane to New York.  Our goal was to visit family, attend to medical appointments, house hunt (for the transition back to part time life on land next year) and visit friends.
Thanks to the friendship of Paul, we have been able to stay in Westford for the past two month. 

During our time here we found a new house to make a home, decided to tie the knot, and much more.  On September 13th we expect to close on a new house in Malletts Bay, Vermont.  It is a lovely home near the lake and includes beach rights and a mooring.  Water will continue to be central to our lives, even when we are in Vermont.

St. Patricks
NYC
Bread and Puppet
Glover, VT
Five days after moving into our new home, we will wed.  The wedding will be officiated by our good friend and (temp) justice of the peace, Paul.  It is going to be a small affair with our family.  After many years of loving each other we have decided to make it official.  Funny how after all these years, we are both so excited to be getting married. 

Soon after we wed on September 17th, we will be preparing to return to Guatemala.  I guess we should call it our honeymoon.  We will haul the boat, paint the bottom, and get her ready to continue the journey to points unknown.

Our vision for the next year is to sail to Honduras’s Roatan Island and to spend November there.  From there we will sail north to the Caymans where we hope to enjoy the holidays.  As the new-year approaches, we hope to see Cuba, Jamaica, and the Bahamas before returning to the states for a month in Charleston, SC.  We will summer with the boat in New England (Bristol) and spend much of our time in Vermont enjoying our new home.  We hope friends and family will find time to join us for this last leg of our four year journey.

As the fall 2017 winds begin to blow, we will once again board Atalanta for southern waters.  Our plan is to never be cold again.  Time will tell.

So that’s the update from Vermont.  Thanks for following

Richard and Kay

More Pics


Caitlin and Kay
in
Monkton, VT



Chad and Tara

Bread and Puppet
Circus

Dinner at Pauls